More ports, narrow roads,museums

Thursday 28 May 2009, 10:15PM
It’s been another day packed with adventure! We began doing laundry in a one-unit launderette in the village of Bowmore, pronounced B’mor, rolling the R on the end. While waiting, we visited a wonderful Scottish book and gift shop. We then visited the Museum of Islay Life in Port Charlotte, viewing photos and artifacts from the Victorian error, the 18th & 19th centuries as well as ancient artifacts from all over Islay…very interesting! Then we ate lunch in the Port Charlotte Hotel where the furnishings and artwork were a feast for the eyes, amazing! Further east, we later parked in Port Nahaven to walk about the tiny village where we chatted with an old gentleman sitting on a bench outside his granddaughter’s home. He told me he was a Glasgow boy and found it too quiet in this village. We happen to like the island’s pace; they say they live on ‘Islay time‘ here. We’ve sited numerous lighthouses including a striking one standing guard at the entrance to this lovely quaint village. Driving back, we found the ancient burial grounds of Clan Donald dating to the 14th century. . WOW! It was misty early in the day but cleared to beautiful sunshine that eventually brought out the midges…nasty wee flying bugs that attack and bite humans from head to toe; but in my opinion, they were not as bad as the black flies of home. We experienced the midges this evening back in Bowmore where we attended our first ever ceilidh, pronounced kaylee. This is a Scottish tradition, an informal concert, party, sing-along, dance…First though, a Home Coming Parade was held with marchers making their way down the hill from the Round Church, spilling into the streets below where hundreds had lined up to watch and cheer, including yours truly, waving our St. Andrew‘s Cross flag. The Islay Pipe and Drum Band led the parade of marchers: fire trucks, dancers, brownies, boys clubs, firemen, ambulance crews , etc. Then the ceilidh began in the square. Many were dressed in handsome traditional dress, i.e. tartan kilts, stockings and jackets. The eight distillery managers served as announcers of all the performers. One smashing good band called Skerryvore played great rousing toe-tapping, hand-clapping music. The Islay Gaelic Choir performed, a famous local vocalist named Norma Monroe sang…so beautifully; many in the audience sang along to the traditional songs. Young girls danced the Highland Fling among others, The crowd joined in a favorite Scottish Country Dance called Stripping the Willow, a lively line dance (sort of). At the end of the ceilidh, everyone in the square joined hands and formed a huge circle to sing Auld Lang Syne, including Michael and me. What a thrill it was to take part in this community event, to mingle with and rejoice in celebration with these local islanders and terrifically proud Scots, to raise our voices together in heartfelt song; it was unforgettably AWESOME! Few! What a day! And every one has been just the same, one discovery and delight after another; We miss home and the pace we’re keeping is very tiring but we also hate to leave this beautiful Island. So, we’re off to bed now, already looking forward to tomorrow’s fun.
Oidhche mhath! (Goodnight!)
Jacqueline

Mike here posting J's writing. I attached a picture of our car (me driving) on one of the not-very-unusual-roads on Islay. As you can see there is not much room. Most of the time there are ditches or other such on both sides. The only way for cars to pass is at designated "passing spots" (wider areas) that you might have to back-up in order to reach !!!